Time for bed…….. it’s like Goldilocks and the three bears…..

Ok, so you have got all the gear you think you need and you have it all set up.  Bedding is an important thing to think about.  Everyone will have a difference of opinion about what is best.  You have to decide what to do for the best for your horse.  Don’t buy the cheapest if it doesn’t work.  If you can’t afford decent bedding which works well then you have to question if you can afford a horse in the first place.

I started off with rubber mats and shavings.  I did this because when I was doing my Stable Management course that’s what my instructor had and when we were practising mucking out I found it quite easy to handle.

I had 3/4 of the stable covered in rubber matting (EVA – thinner type of matting, a bit like play mats for children with a jigsaw edge).  This matting was light, easy to move around and would be easy to lift to keep clean.  I don’t have any drainage in my stable as such as it used to be a workshop which was converted and the lady who put the stables in didn’t think to put any in.  *Sigh*

On top of this I had 2 or 3 bales of shavings.  Now there are all types of shavings, from your local wood yard, Hunters, Snowflake, you name it it’s out there.   I opted for Snowflake as it was compacted and you got a fair amount in a bale.  It’s around the £6 a bale mark but you can shop around and if you want to buy a pallet then it works out cheaper if you have the room for storage.  Remember the delivery charges as well will bump it up if you can’t go and collect it yourself.

Anyhow, so Rubber mats down and 3 bales of shavings.  Brilliant.  Looked really neat.  So here’s where Bart is like Goldilocks.

The bed was quite thick and with the rubber matting was less harsh on his feet.  Well that was the thought.  Went in the next day and it was a complete nightmare.

Bart is a big horse and so it is obvious that there is going to be a fair amount of  urine and faeces.  The shavings were everywhere and he was wearing most of it – and he was using his poo as a pillow – why do they do this?!  Anyhow, it was wet, but not too bad, so I mucked out and put it all back together with a little fresh shavings on top.

Bono was okay with the shavings, however, as he liked to roll he looked like he had walked through a shavings factory every morning, and you would groom him and as soon as your back was turned he would roll again. *Sigh*

Another night went by, and did the same.  After this though I noticed there was a pool of pee in front of the stable.  What was happening was the pee was getting underneath the matting, so although you were cleaning the mats on top, it was going underneath and collecting there.  I had to pull everything up and clean underneath and let me tell you, if you haven’t done this before, it’s disgusting.  I washed all the matting down with a hosepipe etc, dried them off and put them back.  Instead of putting them back with the shavings on top, I put the rubber matting along the other side and put the shavings on top of the concrete.  This was better as at least the pee wouldn’t pool underneath, but unless you kept it really thick, because he was so ‘wet’, it would be a complete mess and would be soggy and horrible when it came to mucking him out in the morning.  It wasn’t only unpleasant for him to sleep in, it also means that they are standing in urine and poo soaked bedding, which can cause problems with their feet.  Mostly thrush.  I know, as he had it, despite me cleaning his feet everyday.  I bought some ‘Stockholm Tar’, cleaned and dried his feet daily and sprayed this on which cleared it up quickly, but of course would not solve the issue.  So what next?  Goldilocks was going to have to try and different bed.

I opted for straw.  I wasn’t particularly keen on this idea as the thought of deep littering didn’t really appeal to me, plus I didn’t think it would help with the wet.  I got some straw from our neighbour & farmer, just 10 bales to begin with because I didn’t know if it would work or not, and at £1.50/£2 a bale its a lot cheaper than the shavings option.

I made a big deep bed and it looked great.  The next morning it was everywhere, the poo had dropped in through the straw and underneath it hadn’t soaked up the pee well so it was soggy and took a long time to clean and muck out.  Bono had also been changed to straw, and he was ok, and it seemed to work ok, and again he was covered in straw in his mane and tail, but that’s just what he does! The straw does go a long way and it is cheap, but I still wasn’t happy with using it with Bart as it wasn’t soaking up anything, so in order to use it up I have kept Bono on it and decided that Goldilocks needed to try something else.

I went to our local Countryside store, Mole, and spoke to a lovely girl called Alice.  She has her own horses, and I told her what a nightmare I was going through, and she could see I was almost having a nervous breakdown because of it!  Anyhow, she used to have a mare with cushings who used to wee a lot, so she used wood chip.  She showed me a couple of options, but the one we opted for was Snowflake.  She said it tends to stay and not get kicked about, and that when they pee and poo it sits on the top, so you can take the dry stuff around it away and just pick up the wet bits.  Sounded ideal.  Right lets start with 6 bales of that please.  It’s about the same price as the shavings, so wasn’t going to be costing much more, and to be honest if it worked then I would be really happy he was sleeping on a dry bed.  Although he mostly stood up to sleep, I knew he laid down, as did Bono, and that his feet would be also dry too.

Got home and unloaded.  I put 3 bales down to begin with.  The next morning it was awesome.  I walked in, and wasn’t overwhelmed by the smell of urine, and the poo was just sitting on the top, and you could move the dry bits away and pick up the wet.  I only took out one barrow full which was mostly poo and wee with hardly any wood chip.  Now in comparison I was taking about 3 – 4 barrows out of shavings and 3-4 barrows of straw.  Hurrah!!

This was working well.  Let me tell you a trick though.  Don’t get complacent and top it up!  If you take out a barrow a day, you are going to be taking out the wood chip with it too, so you need to top it up.  I forgot this fact in the first week and by the end of the week I looked like I was back to square one with the shavings again. I was getting really upset because how could you let him stay in something so ghastly?.  I had a look on the website and it states on there that you need to start with 3 bales and keep it topped up, so I took all the bad stuff out and went out, got some more, stuck 3 bales in there and made it really thick.  I am talking a good 4″ thick.  The next morning was back to being bliss again.  I think we cracked it.

You can’t afford to be too OCD with their bedding, although admittedly I am.  I like to have a bank around the edge, and the wood chip to be level.  I flick up the chip around the edge, using the fork to ‘straighten’ it out around the edges, and then using the back of the fork, I run this over the wood chip to make it level.  He doesn’t kick it around too much as it’s thick and doesn’t move as easily as the shavings.

There are other types of bedding, there are so many different types of straw, recycled paper, hemp, cardboard,  just all sorts out there, and each horse is different so you need to think about what is best for them and what works for them in the first instance.  If it is easier to use then this is a bonus.

In the first few weeks it used to take me an hour to give them breakfast, muck out two stables, fill the hay nets, water, sweep up, fill up the trough, put the electric fencing on etc, but I have it down to the fine art of an hour.  I know that I could do it quicker than that too, but to be honest, because I have my illness and this makes me in a muck sweat anyway, I don’t see the point in trying to kill myself to do it quicker as it isn’t a race.  After I have to have a cuppa and a snooze otherwise I will be bad the rest of the day!

The other tip is that if they are out for the day, then when you muck them out in the morning, use the fork to chuck all the bedding in a pile(s) at the back  and brush everything off the floor and then using diluted Jeyes Fluid in a spray bottle, spray a layer of it on the floor.  When the floor dries out, not only will it have less germs, but it won’t smell so bad either.  When you come to raking it all back before you bring them in then you know it’s all dry and fresher underneath which makes it nicer for both them and you.

Mucking out isn’t the best job in the world, but there is a satisfaction in making their bed nice and tidy for when they come in.  You have to think what would it be like for you if you were them and came in to rest and were standing in poo and wee?  If you think that’s ok, I don’t want to know, but would suggest that 99.9% would think ‘Ewwwwwww’.

So hopefully this has given you some help in deciding which bed your Goldilocks is going to sleep in.

Next time:  Pulling your brave pants up and going it alone…….

So much to think about…..

There is so much to think about.  Even if you think you are pretty read up and prepared, you still have a mind melt.

Other things to think about is what you need for your stable, paddock and for your horse.

As I said, it’s lovely to have a thumb through the catalogues and on the internet for what colour rugs you want and do you want matching bandages etc, and believe me my Rideaway catalogue is very well thumbed (www.rideaway.co.uk), and believe me when I say I have been one of their best customers in the last few months!

The practical items are the things you really need to take in to consideration.  Are you going to have rubber matting?  I decided to as it’s kinder on their feet, so I opted for a matting which is similar to children’s play mats with jigsaw edging.  It’s light, durable and easy to wash down, although I didn’t use the jigsaw bit as it didn’t lay as straight enough as I wanted it to.  Do you want to do the whole stable or just half?  I did half rubber matting and half bedding because of the brick columns in the stable would mean cutting out bits and that was just too much like hard work.  So half matting and half shavings was my first option.

Along with this you need the tools to be able to muck out and feed.  The essentials are:

  • Gloves for Poo picking
  • Straw/Shavings fork
  • Wheelbarrow
  • Shovel
  • A poo tidee
  • Broom
  • Haynets
  • Food buckets
  • Water buckets
  • Hosepipe
  • Grooming Kit/Tack Box
  • Storage Bins for Food
  • Feed scoop
  • Weigh Tape
  • Height tape
  • Weigh scale (for weighing hay nets)
  • First Aid Kit (I will discuss this more in another blog)
  • Fire Extinguisher (A good idea)

Got all that?!  If you want you can obviously choose to have a pink wheelbarrow if that floats your boat, but personally I go for practicality rather than colour. What you also want to think about is where you are going to store your rugs, tack and other essentials.

Now food is obviously essential for your horse, and it’s important you get it right, as trust me when I tell you that if you don’t you will have a grumpy horse!  When Bart & Bono first arrived my paddock was lovely and green with good grass, and obviously this will go quickly, and if like me your paddock space is limited, then it is essential that you have good paddock maintainence .  As well as the paddock you have the hard feed.

To work out how much your horse will need it helps to know: How tall are they? How much do they weigh?.  Now you can buy height measuring tapes and you can buy a weight tape.  Unless you are fortunate to live near to a weigh bridge then the weight tape is probably the best option.  Although not totally accurate, if you use it regularly it will give you an idea of whether they are losing weight or getting porky or staying the same.  You also have to have a look at what you are actually doing with your horse. If you are doing a hack and a couple of schooling sessions then your horse will still be in ‘light work’.

There is an accurate way of working out how much food a horse requires, but basically a horse needs to eat about 2 1/2% of it’s body weight a day.  If your horse is:

  • 10hh – 6lbs of food
  • 11hh – 10lbs of food
  • 12hh – 14lbs of food
  • 13hh – 18lbs of food
  • 14hh – 22lbs of food
  • 15hh – 26lbs of food
  • 16hh – 30lbs of food
  • 17hh – 34lbs of food

10% of this is hard feed and 90% is bulk (hay/haylage/grass).  So if like Bart your horse is 17hh then they require 34lbs of feed, so that is 3.4lbs of hard feed and the rest bulk.  If you prefer to work in Kgs then 2.2lb is 1kg.  If like Bono you are 10hh then they require 6lbs of food, 0.6lbs hard feed and the rest bulk, however, it does depend on the type and breed of horse as Shetlands can get fat on fresh air.

You then divide this up in to Breakfast, Dinner and Night feed.  For my boys they have breakfast at 7.30am/8am, having half of their hard feed in the morning, mixed with supplements and a carrot or two, then when they are out they are munching away on grass.  If the grass is not great then you will want to give them hay/haylage for them as well. They come in for dinner about 6pm and they have the other half of their hard feed.  For night time they then have their hay nets which will keep them going.

As I mentioned earlier, if you don’t give them enough overnight then you will have a grumpy horse.  I made this mistake and boy was Bart grumpy!  Remember they are trickle feeders so eat little and often (well nearly all the time). Once I kicked myself up the bum and worked it out then he was happy, and so was I!

As for what hard feed you want to use, it is a good idea to find out what they were on before and slowly change it if you want them to be on something different.  I sought advice from friends who had a wealth of experience as to what they fed theirs on.  I decided to put them on Dengie Alpha A and Top Spec Balancer (Non heating).  Its a good idea to ask friends where they buy their feed from, and if you have the space, you tend to be able to get a bit knocked off if you buy in bulk.  If you can’t fit it in your car/trailer then you can have it delivered, however generally there is a charge which can make it a little more expensive.  Same with your hay/haylage.  It’s important to get good quality, non dusty hay, or a good haylage.  I decided on hay as they wouldn’t get through haylage quick enough and it would start to go off, and it’s more sugary so I didn’t want them bouncing off the walls.  It’s good to get to know a local farmer who will be able to deliver it for you.  Don’t leave it until you have only a couple of bales left (Yep!  Done that too!!), otherwise you end up panicking and having to ring around to see if you can get some there and then.  You will soon get to know how much you get through a day so you can work out how long it will last.

Your hard feed does need to be stored somewhere where the rodents won’t get to it.  I bought a feed bin with partitions so I could fit a bag in each section which is really handy.  I bought mine from Ani-mate, a small friendly company, and Martin who runs it is great. (http://www.ani-matefeedbins.co.uk).

The other thing you want to consider for your stable is where you are going to keep your tack.  If you are on livery then they will have a place for you to store your tack away.  I bought a tack locker (again from ani-mate), which holds everything.  Make sure you screw it against the wall otherwise even if it’s locked then they can still pick it up and walk off with it!

As I also mentioned a Fire Extinguisher is handy and a first aid kit (more of which I will cover on another post), oh and of course you also want to have a kettle – handy for cleaning, bathing and of course a cuppa!

So are you still up to speed?  It’s a mind melt – I did tell you that!! Just remember the 5 P’s – Preparation prevents piss poor performance!

Next post:  Different bedding and how to save yourself a lot of work when mucking out.

 

 

 

 

So it all begins…..

Bart & Bono were now in my care.  EEEEKKKKK!! It’s a scary thing.  Even after doing a year of Stable Management and Horse Care, there is nothing like having a massive responsibility of actually owning your own.

The first week was busy.  I was fortunate to have my lovely friend come over and help me muck out every day as I hadn’t been well.  It is always helpful to have someone give you a hand to begin with.  There is so much to think about.

What type of bedding are you going to have? What did they have before? What size hay net do they need?  What hard feed, if any, were they on? Any supplements?

I decided that I wanted to use shavings.  My old instructor used to use shavings and it seemed manageable.  Straw seemed a lot of hassle.  I forgot to ask what either of them were on before, and I didn’t ask whether they were messy or clean in their stable.  These questions are handy to know.

Haynet size?  Yes there are big ones, small ones, little holes, big holes, there are so many different types.  I started off with a large hay net with 2″ holes for Bart and a small pony net with 1″ holes for Bart.  While this was a good idea, Bart ate at such a rate the 2″ holes were too big.  He was a gannet!  So I purchased a 1″ hole net, except that the less grass that there was on the paddock it meant more hay for night time.  By the end of the first month I had 3 hay nets dotted around Barts stable.  Ridiculous.  So in the end I had bought two 2″ hay nets that were useless, 4 1″ nets which kind of worked but had so many he hardly had room in his stable, 2 1″ pony nets for Bono and in the end I bought a 9kg Greedy Feeder net with 1″ holes for Bart.  The 2″ net I put a football in for him to pull about for entertainment, and the other I use out in the paddock.  You really don’t need to buy so many nets, and don’t buy two of everything until you know it works.

Hard feed? I knew what he was having every day, but I spoke to my friends and they suggested that although they will be on grass that it would be still a good idea to have a balancer so that you know he is getting all his nutrients.  I chose Alpha A chaff and Top Spec non heating balancer.  It’s important you don’t change them over too quickly because it can upset their digestive system, but if you do it slowly you will be fine.

Supplement wise I chose to get a general vitamin supplement and Magic, a magnesium supplement and calmer, and garlic.

Magic was the one I was unsure about, but I chose to put Bart on it as I didn’t want him unsettled so I thought it would help.  (I will talk more about this in a future blog).

Don’t forget also that you need to work out the percentage of hard feed they need, grass and hay, as well as what type of work that they are in.  If you are in a muddle then please ask someone, or use on line calculators to work it out.  If you get it wrong you will have a grumpy or poorly horse.

During the week we had the vet to come and give them their jabs and give them a once over.  Bono (my Shetland) was as big as he should get and could do with losing a bit of exercise, but Bart was fine.  The saddler came next and she check Bart’s saddle and said she would come out again in a month or so when the saddle had dropped.  Its always a good idea to get their saddle checked even if it’s one you have bought with your horse.  This saddle was well kept but it was lumpy underneath and there was a gap, so it wasn’t sitting on his back correctly.  It was reflocked and all was good.  It pays to get it checked to avoid any further issues in the future.

Next was the farrier.  Now Bono needed a pedicure, but Bart needed new shoes, and he wasn’t shod on the back, so this was going to be interesting.  The farrier was chosen because of recommendation from friends.  Bart needed size 5 shoes, which for those not in the know are about the size of dinner plates, so it’s more costly.  Anyhow, the farrier did a great job, even though Bart had never been shod on the back.  A word of note – it may be easier if you aren’t there trying to calm your horse and let the farrier get on with it.  I noticed with Bart that he was more fussy when I was stood there, and being a ‘first time parent’ I was worried he was going to go off on one.  If your farrier is happy to get on with it then let them.  One thing of note too – it’s hot work – please offer them a drink!  It goes down well.  Trust me!!

The first week was done, and I found it hard mucking out every day.  Partially due to my illness and not feeling tip top, but also because, lets face it, it’s bloody hard work.  There is the mucking out, making sure the bed is done, water filled up, hay nets filled up.  Now it’s not so bad in the summer as they are out on the grass so while they are out nibbling you can be mucking out.  I am not looking forward to when it’s winter but thats another story!

By the end of the first week I was having a meltdown.  What had I let myself in for?  I knew it was tough, but I was absolutely exhausted.  Although it was the right time for me to have a horse, it was the wrong time because I was poorly so it all hit me at once.

Honestly don’t let this put you off – it does get better and you get in the swing of it, but if you aren’t prepared to have blood sweat and tears, and no more lay ins forever, then you need to think again, unless of course you don’t have time and have the money, put them in full livery.

Next time:  The roller coaster that is the first few weeks of being a ‘first time mum’.